In August 2005, Hurricane Katrina devastated the city of New Orleans. Many buildings were damaged or destroyed. Among them was the home of the oldest family-run restaurant in the U.S., Antoine’s, which looked ready to collapse. Rather than give up on the restaurant business in a struggling New Orleans, the institution reopened on December 31, 2005, because, as CEO and fifth-generation member of the family, Rick Blount put it in an interview with Bloomberg, “Antoine’s needed to be what Antoine’s always was.” That spirit of tradition is what made Anthony Bourdain feel a ping of nostalgia break through his jaded cynicism when he visited the restaurant in his early-2008 episode of “No Reservations.”
“This goes right back to my beginnings, man. You’ve got to love this,” Bourdain says as he points out the lemon wedge in a cheesecloth and sprig of parsley next to his plate of lump crab meat soaked in butter and griddled pompano. Lemon wraps are a true symbol of old-school class, in place to allow the diner to squeeze lemon juice onto their meal with no pulp or seeds. As will be portrayed in the new movie, Tony Bourdain came of age in this type of restaurant – a beachside seafood restaurant with destination-worthy dishes.
What Antoine’s is like today
Antoine’s is still in the family, with Rick Blount continuing as CEO. The dress code relaxed after Katrina, with jackets and collared shirts now just a strong suggestion for men. Still no athletic or beach wear, baseball caps, or flip-flops, though. Customers tend to dress up — arrive underdressed, and you may feel out of place. Dress codes can be confusing (check out our guide for some help) – dressing up for Antoine’s will always be a safe choice.
Antoine’s menu of French-Creole fare doesn’t currently have the Oysters Foch Bourdain ate when he visited. You can still get the Pompano Pontchartrain with butter-poached lump crabmeat and grilled pompano filet. To this day, diners appreciate the historic atmosphere and authentic New Orleans cuisine. This is the place where the famous dish, Oysters Rockefeller, was invented in 1899. The restaurant is currently putting on a French fusion experience menu with dishes from throughout the French colonial footprint — Vietnam, Spanish and French Creole, and coastal France.